Exploring Madagascar’s Tsingy de Namoroka National Park: A Remote Natural Wonder Now Within Reach
Namoroka Tsingy Camp brings travellers to Madagascar’s remote Tsingy de Namoroka, offering once-inaccessible trails, unique wildlife, and unforgettable starry skies in style and comfort.
In remote north-west Madagascar, in Tsingy de Namoroka National Park, which is almost unknown to travellers or researchers, the Madagascar Classic Collection has established Namoroka Tsingy Camp. This stylish accommodation situated amongst the dramatic, other-worldly Tsingy formations now allows visitors to explore this once-inaccessible natural wonder.
What used to be a tedious journey of two days from the port of Mahajanga, requiring two ferry crossings and a well-equipped 4×4 with a winch, plus all fuel and food; now involves a direct Airlink flight from Johannesburg to Antananarivo, a charter flight to Soalala, a motorboat ride across a riverine harbour, then a 2.5-hour road trip in a 4×4. Through Malagasy villages of the Sakalava people, alongside rice paddies, fording a few streams, passing banana and cassava plantations, on weathered roads. The journey itself is an adventure fostering connection among travellers.
The spectacular tsingys are karst plateaus, where limestone has been eroded by acidified rain runoff over millions of years, sculpting sharp peaks and deep valleys. Below the tsingy is a labyrinth of caves and subterranean streams. The Marosakabe cave system is 113km long and is the longest cave in Africa. The word Tsingy originates from the Malagasy verb, meaning “to walk on tiptoe”, or “to proceed with caution”. Razor-sharp tsingy must be carefully negotiated, so at times on our walks, I welcome the hand of Earnest Manarina, my guide.
Birds, Lemurs, and Nocturnal Wonders
The easiest forest walk, a 15-minute drive from Namoroka Tsingy Camp, is a 3km circuit that takes us about two hours. I’m thrilled to spot the rare Schlegel’s Asity, a mega-tick for birders! A Giant coua adds to my bird list. Lovable lemurs are easily seen and include Von der Decken’s sifaka, endemic to Namoroka.
On a 1.5km trail, starting at the camp, where the Ampandrana stream flows between the trees, we see two species of nocturnal mouse lemur, transparent geckos, and a Madagascar scops owl. As the Namoroka National Park has no lights at all, it’s a dark zone where the stars are super-bright in clear skies.
Trails, Baobabs, and Xerophytics Wonders
A 25-minute drive from camp, the Ambozimarohabo trail has splendid baobabs, where their exposed roots are so large we sit on them for a rest. Growing on the tsingy are quirky-looking xerophytic Pachypodiums, with fat stems to store water. In the semi-dry deciduous forest, we watch rufous brown lemur, the critically endangered Decken’s sifaka and Tsiombikibo sportive lemur.
After each exhilarating trail, it’s blissful to return to Namoroka Tsingy Camp, to spruce up in my outdoor shower, before an alfresco meal with all guests, at a table set between tsingy and stacked stone walls. It’s convivial as we savour South African wine, chatting about the astonishing geological wonders and biodiversity that we have been privileged to see. Particularly impressive are thousands of roosting fruit bats, the Madagascar flying foxes, looking like ripe fruit in the trees before taking off with squealing and unfurled leathery wings of 1.5–1.7 metres.
Luxury and Solitude in the Heart of Namoroka
The presence of Namoroka Tsingy Camp, in this remote, surreal setting, is impressive in itself. I luxuriate in my tent, listening to the rasping call of a Madagascan nightjar, grateful for this life-enhancing expedition.
Airlink operates direct flights from Johannesburg to Antananarivo four times a week. Travel arrangements courtesy of MadagasCaT Travel.
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