Constance Tsarabanjina • Tsarabanjina Island • Mitsio Archipelago • Madagascar • Business Day WANTED

 

Living the island fantasy

The tiny Indian Ocean retreat of Constance Tsarabanjina inspires the quintessential island idyll

Madagascar is less well known, yet the islands are rich with ingredients for a blissful tropical holiday.
Image: Gillian McLaren

Daydreams of time on a sultry island inspire the pursuit of bright sunlight, a cool breeze off the ocean, an expanse of beach with shells at the tideline, plus — of course — unlimited fresh food and cocktails. Bacardi Rum adverts and images of picture-perfect digital nomads fuel the imagination, deepening the reverie and anticipation.

Though Mauritius and Maldives are favourites, Madagascar is less well known, yet the islands are rich with ingredients for a blissful tropical holiday, with a biodiversity that rivals the Peruvian Amazon and the opportunity to experience authentic elements of Malagasy life.

During the motorboat journey from Nosy Be, in northwestern Madagascar, across the Indian Ocean to tiny Tsarabanjina Island, Spinner dolphins play across the wake and leap out of the navy blue waves. Approaching the small island, with its white sandy shore, a row of a dozen staff members is waving and calling out an enthusiastic welcome. After a drink of iced cinnamon tea — served with an eco-friendly bamboo straw, plus a hibiscus flower for decorative flourish — guests deposit their shoes on a rack, to walk barefoot for the duration of their stay at Constance Tsarabanjina.

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After a welcome drink, guests deposit their shoes on a rack, to walk barefoot for the duration of their stay at Constance Tsarabanjina.
Image: Gillian McLaren

The 12 South Beach Villas are spread out along the beach, set under shady trees for seclusion, close to the calm warm waters of the ocean. In front of each private veranda are sun loungers and an umbrella, creating an atmosphere of seclusion and tranquillity. After a stroll on the beach and clambering over black rocks to watch a melted vermilion sunset, a massage by the Malagasy therapist adds to the feeling of Tsarabanjina nirvana. The rustic spa on the beach, has an open side to view the gentle waves and hear them lapping on the shore.

Set on a hill above North Beach, 13 villas with their own terrace are surrounded by indigenous trees and bushes. This enhances privacy and frames the views of private deck chairs on the sun-bleached sand, to the cerulean ocean, with the occasional passing dhow. A subtle scent of ylang-ylang comes from a Madagascar-shaped soap in the bathroom, through the louvres that link the two areas. It’s tempting to linger on the king-size bed with its white linen, under the draped mosquito net, gazing at the rosewood walls and palm-leaf thatched roof, but the aquamarine water calls and snorkelling is easy, right there off the almost deserted beach.

Tropical reef fish — like Oriental sweetlips, parrotfish, emperor angelfish, Moorish idols and butterfly fish — dart and weave between the patches of coral. Madagascar has its own “Nemo”, the Madagascar clownfish, found safe in stinging sea anemones. It’s not unusual to spot green or hawksbill turtles, blue-spotted ribbon tail rays or moray eels hiding in crevices. To snorkel further offshore, there are daily boat excursions.

With so much biodiversity close to the shore, shallow water of 1m-4m and skilled dive masters, Constance Tsarabanjina is a perfect eco-lodge positioned for learning to scuba dive. Blue Wave Diving Tsarabanjina — the only dive centre in the Mitsio archipelago — runs the diving, including PADI beginner and advanced courses. Their standards of safety and care of 12l aluminium tanks and dive gear is excellent, yet they have a laidback manner, to facilitate a relaxed, anxiety free experience. “Mora mora” in Malagasy sums up their chilled vibe; akin to “Hakuna matata” in Swahili.

Constance Tsarabanjina is a perfect eco-lodge positioned for learning to scuba dive.
Image: Gillian McLaren

As only Constance Tsarabanjina guests have access to the dive sites, it’s an exclusive adventure in pristine water. Sites include Les Quartet Frères — the Four Brothers — isolated towering rock faces, plus Les Tétôns, a mere 10-minute boat ride away. Crocodile fish, white-tipped reef tipped sharks, pipefish, scorpion leaf fish, cute nudibranchs and box fish are frequently seen. Humpback whales, whale sharks, manta rays and dolphins can be spotted during the August to November migration season. After each dive is an exhilarating interaction with the dive team and fellow divers, to discuss sightings and the underwater experience, while sipping hot cinnamon tea.

The terraces on each villa enhance privacy and frames the views of private deck chairs on the sun-bleached sand.
Image: Gillian McLaren

The restaurant, set high up above the communal lounge and bar with a beach sand floor, has a view of beach, cyanic ocean and cliffs where endemic Madagascar fish eagle nest. Grilled fresh fish and shellfish are abundant in the lunch buffet and al la carte dinner, as is the famed Madagascan Zebu beef. A Malagasy sommelier is available to guide the selection of wines from an impressive list, thankfully all included in the rate. Breakfast is a feast of pastries and breads in European style, as well as exotic fruit, freshly pressed juices, charcuterie and eggs to order. Ask for butter if you are South African or British. Private dining areas are lovingly prepared for honeymooners or those celebrating special occasions. Nothing is too much trouble for the relaxed, willing staff, where genuine warm connections happen.

After three visits, the names of guests are engraved on a metal plaque and pasted on the bar counter. One couple have stayed 50 times, an indication of their fulfilment of the desire for island heaven and bliss.

 

 

 

Getting there

Airlink flight from Johannesburg landing in Nosy Be, Madagascar.
Image: Gillian McLaren

Airlink, Southern Africa’s premier regional airline serves more than 45 destinations in 15 African Countries as well as Madagascar and St Helena Island.

Airlink operates direct return flights between Joburg and Nosy Be, Madagascar, on Sundays. Direct return flights between Joburg and Antananarivo operate four times a week.

For more information or bookings, visit flyairlink.com

Logistics in Madagascar

Organising a trip to Madagascar can be complicated, as it is a big country without much infrastructure, so it’s wise to use the services of a reputable destination management company like MadagasCaT Travel. 

For more information, visit madagascat.co.za

Gillian McLaren was a guest at Constance Tsarabanjina with flights sponsored by Airlink.