Jabulani Safari: A Soulful Journey Beyond the Ordinary
Experience the awe-inspiring bond between humans and elephants at this South African safari, where intimate encounters with these majestic animals reveal their playful intelligence and enduring resilience.
Watching a mature elephant bull from the vantage point of a game vehicle is thrilling, but standing next to one feels soulful, magical and humbling. Jabulani – a male elephant now 27 years old – was rescued at the age of four months, from a silt dam where he was stuck in the mud and abandoned by his herd. When a herd of elephants was saved from a life-threatening situation in Zimbabwe, Jabulani was fortuitously accepted by the matriarch. Refusing to return to the wild, Jabulani is now the second in dominance in the herd at Jabulani Safari, in Kapama, in the greater Kruger area. I battle to hold back my tears as the carer invites me to touch Jabulani’s trunk, then to reach up to caress the base of his ear, while holding this mighty pachyderm’s gaze. I experience him as friendly and kind, with a playful intelligence, as he stretches his trunk to my shirt to examine me!
When I meet Sebakwe, the dominant bull in the Jabulani herd, I’m delighted to discover that I can recognise how his personality differs from that of Jabulani. Sebakwe – part of the rescued Zimbabwe herd, estimated to be about 40 years old – is monumental in size, yet has a strong, quiet demeanour. His image has been immortalised on the bottles of Amarula liqueur! At sunset, the herd walks from the bush where they have been foraging, to a waterhole where they swim and sport with one another, before returning to their safe haven for the night. I watch this from a deck chair, sipping iced Sauvignon Blanc, with snacks to hand. Two male giraffes stride past us, as a family of warthog scurry back to their termite mound.
Hoedspruit Elephant Rehabilitation and Development (HERD) was established as a dedicated elephant orphanage, to ensure that elephants displaced due to human-elephant conflict could have a chance to be rehabilitated and to heal. Some of the elephants have been traumatised by poaching violence. By visiting Jabulani Safari, guests are contributing to the work at HERD, but one can ‘foster’ a particular elephant by donating to its care.
Back in my suite that faces a dry river bed, I stand in my private splash pool, contemplating the privilege of having interacted so intimately with elephants. A Nyala bull treads lightly beneath a Russet bushwillow. After a powerful thunderstorm, with lightning flashes reminiscent of intermittent Northern Lights, I stroll to the al fresco dining area. As a member of Relais & Châteaux, the cuisine is consistently fine and creatively presented by the executive chefs. My butler proffers advice and entertaining information about the South African wines on offer.
Times of activities at Jabulani Safari are flexible. I choose to head out for my game drive at sunrise, to savour the changing light and the fragrance of crisp morning air. My reward is a sighting of a young female leopard. She preens herself, stretches, sharpens her claws on the bark of a tree, and then climbs up to laze on a branch, with her legs and tail dangling. No other vehicles approach, so I watch her until she jumps up, leaps down from the tree and disappears into the savannah.
As well as close-up sightings of the big five, we spot White-backed vultures in their nest, Wahlberg’s eagles scanning for prey, Dwarf mongoose fossicking for morsels, a mother hyena with her youngster lying in water and more. My guide points out a tree laden with communal spider nests, like Christmas decorations. Our customised vehicle has a console between the seats, with ample space to store my camera equipment.
Jabulani Safari combines well-appointed suites affording total privacy, delectable fare and personalised activities, with the unique and meaningful experience of connecting with elephants.
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