Enveloped by Pristine Nature, Ensconced in Understated Luxury: Grootbos Private Nature Reserve in South Africa
A unique floral kingdom of the world, found only in the Southwestern Cape Province of South Africa, fynbos is a beautiful and fascinating biome, begging to be explored. Grootbos Private Nature Reserve is set in 3500 hectares of richly diverse vegetation, which includes Milkwood and Afromontane forests set within the fynbos, each perfect for a nature ramble or hike. This Cape floral region was declared a Natural World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2004.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
It feels magical walking on the shady path under the ancient milkwood trees next to my suite at Forest Lodge. With scores of species of moss and ferns, multi-coloured lichens, and pretty creepers, I expect to see fairies hiding, or shyly peeping out at me. Birdcalls from the canopy and undergrowth add to the enchantment. I spot flitting Cape white eye, Cape bulbul, Bar-throated apalis and the flourish of tail feathers of a Paradise fly catcher. My guide, Morag Steele, smiles as I stop to photograph some blue-grey old man’s beard, a lichen that decorates branches and trunks. Morag is passionate about the variety and beauty of flora and fauna in Grootbos and is thrilled that I am also entranced by the detail. Of the 907 species of fynbos found in this pristine area, seven were new to science and 100 are on the endangered species list.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
The meandering Milkwood forest path leads to sixteen suites, each freestanding, secluded and completely private. An inside-outside design, with floor to ceiling windows and sliding doors maximises panoramic views of the private plunge pool, over verdant fynbos, down to the Indian Ocean.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Feng shui principles ensure a harmonious and serene feel, with a through breeze, minimal furniture, separate bedroom and lounge spaces, the simplicity of whitewashed walls and wooden floors. For winter, a fireplace, underfloor heating and a heated towel rail, add to the romance of the suite. As well as a master bathroom with free-standing stone bath and rain shower adjacent to the bedroom, there is a separate bathroom with toilet and shower next to the lounge. A special treat is the outdoor shower, where I enjoy the fragrance from nearby fynbos and of the biodegradable amenities that are handmade by local people.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
Having arrived at Grootbos mid-afternoon, I order tapas from the Afternoon Menu. An impressive array of charcuterie, pâté, local cheeses, tapenade, olives and hummus, with freshly baked sourdough bread, is brought to me on my deck. I add a celebratory glass of iced Sauvignon Blanc, chosen from the award-winning wines stocked in my bar fridge. Except for the calls of a pair of Lesser double-collared sunbirds, all I can hear is the sound of a gentle breeze. The tranquility is palpable.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
Sunset from the deck of the communal area of Forest Lodge is an occasion to try home-made cookies with the herbal fynbos teas developed by Grootbos. Named Harmony, Vitality and Tranquility, each blend contains anti-oxidants and is refreshing. I savour a Fynbos Gin, as I gaze at the drama of an orange streaked sky, reflected in the ocean. Fellow guests exclaim enthusiastically during these sensational moments, posing for selfies and family images, before heading to the dining room for a gourmet supper, paired with fine South African wine.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
Grootbos has one of largest private collections of wine in Western Cape, with single varieties and blends carefully selected from the best of vintages. Even the water is exceptionally good, coming from a sandstone aquifer on the reserve.
Image by Grootbos
On a morning drive in an open Land rover, through the flowering fynbos, we stop to learn the names of some of the more common, or particularly interesting species. I take in the remarkable floristic diversity, plus the intriguing colours and features of each plant, amazed how they have adapted to thrive in acidic soil with poor nutrient availability. Many of the flowers and leaves give off an exquisite fragrance, stored as volatile oils. Bees use the flowers of Erica species to produce the delectable honey that is served at breakfast on the lodge deck. An array of butterflies, out in the bright sunshine, flutter from flower to flower, pollinating as well as being beautiful. The rare Orange-breasted sunbird is one of 26 avian endemics in this fynbos on the western edge of the Agulhas plain. Using its long, curved beak, the bird sips nectar from the concave floral tubes of an Erica flower. Rapidly repeats its tinny call, the sunbird wings to a Protea shrub.
Image from a painting by Wendy Burchell (by Gillian McLaren)
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
In the Afromontane forest, White stink woods (Celtis africana) can reach 10 meters tall, with wide trunks. The interior of the forest where Morag leads me on a walk, is dark and smells of rich earth. As the light penetration is low, there is a sparse ground layer of plants. Climbers like Asparagus scandens twine up against trees to reach valiantly towards light above the sub-canopy. We find evidence of the presence of leopards, as deep scratch marks are visible on the bark of a Hard pear (Olinia ventosa).
Image by Gillian McLaren
The path leads up the valley, partly out of the forest, to expose breathtaking views, well worth the ascent. A botanical highlight for me is discovering two species of the carnivorous sundew, both in flower, thriving in a moist area with seepage from surface springs. The glandular leaves glint in the sunlight luring unsuspecting ants to their death, as the hairy leaves curl up in response to movement, to capture and digest prey.
Image by Gillian McLaren
During a visit to the Grootbos Florilegium, I am engrossed by illustrations of fynbos plants, carefully and creatively executed by local and international artists. It’s fun to find the very species that I have just examined in the field, painted or pencilled with creatures that pollinate or eat the plant. Prints of these masterful artworks are sold, with the proceeds going in equal share to conservation and the support of the arts in the local communities - so I invest in three of my favourites. This takes care of a gift for my husband’s birthday!
Image from a painting by Chris Lochner (by Gillian McLaren)
Image from a painting by Chris Lochner (by Gillian McLaren)
Image by Gillian McLaren
I clutch my camera in one hand, with the other hand gripping the railing of Dreamcatcher, the whale-watching vessel of Dyer Island Cruises. It forges through the ocean, trailing a wide wake and causing salty spray, as we head towards a southern right whale and her calf. With utmost consideration of these giant Cetaceans, the pilot stops to allow them to approach us. I am so close to these baleen whales that I can clearly see the callosities, the white patches of raised skin on their head and jaw that are unique to each individual. The baby, with the energy of all healthy young mammals, sports and cavorts around and under the mother.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Reaching Dyer Island, we are rewarded with a sighting of literally thousands of Cape fur seals on the rocks, in sandy coves and on a shipwreck. They are curious and playful, clumsy on land, but effortlessly spinning and twirling in the water. I spot Cape gull, Hartlaub’s gull, Cape cormorant and the striking African black oystercatcher. Our expert guide points out a Giant petrel, a first-time sighting for me.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
Grootbos Private Nature Reserve is a world leader in sustainable tourism, which it has been for over 20 years. As well as the commercial enterprise of top-end luxury lodges, Grootbos is eco-friendly, deeply concerned about conservation and scientific advancement, and consistently innovates projects to help the local communities to flourish. Being here is an unforgettable African experience, where I am immersed in nature, to unwind, re-centre and refresh body and soul.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Dyer Island Cruises are based in the fishing town of Gansbaai, Western Cape. From a safe, custom built vessel, sail into the natural marine habitat of whales, great white sharks, dolphins, seals, penguins and pelagic birds.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Taken from: https://www.luxurytravelmagazine.com/news-articles/grootbos-private-nature-reserve-in-south-africa
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