On an early morning game drive, we watch a bank of low
cloud on the horizon as it rolls towards our open-sided vehicle. It’s a
warm day, the grass on the plains of Lalibela Wildlife Reserve
in the Eastern Cape Province of South Africa is lush, with an abundance
of flowers. The mist enfolds us. We stop to enjoy the feeling of
mystery, the sensation of moist air on our faces. In front of us, on the
dust road, a shape appears. Spectre-like it moves closer. An African
buffalo bull! Steadily others follow, including females with calves.
They communicate with one another via grunts and bellows, exhaling
vapour as they call.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
Next to the road, on the ground and in bushes, hundreds of dew-decked
spider webs glisten in the soft light. Our guide identifies the webs of
a few species of spiders, including the Social spider with a mesh of
cribellate silk enfolding dried leaves and the remains of prey. Adults
and spiderlings live together to cooperate in web-building, prey capture
and brood rearing. The Grass Funnel-web spider constructs funnel-shaped
webs near to the ground to trap their prey.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
An array of mushrooms have sprung up after the first rains.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
My guide is called in to an African elephant sighting, so we make our
way there. This breeding herd of mothers, youngsters and babies, with
an imposing bull lingering nearby, is moving in single file away from a
watering hole, up a hill. Switching off the motor, we listen to the low
rumbling communication between these pachyderms and look at details of
their padded feet on the grassy slope.
Image by Gillian McLaren
In a patch of shade, we find a mature lion with a mane that looks as
if he has had highlights. Fast asleep, his distended stomach reveals
that this is a post-prandial snooze. Further down the road two female
lions are crouching near to a herd of Red hartebeest. We wonder if the
dominant male devoured the major part of their catch, leaving them still
hungry.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
It’s the birthing time of the year for antelope, so almost every
blesbok female has a youngster by her side. Guests are thrilled to watch
a calf being born, then nudged by its mother to stand. The astounding
video is evidence of this rare sighting. After our game drive, we crowd
together In the lounge before our à la carte breakfast, to watch the
birth and to marvel at the miracle of how quickly the new-born stands up
on its wobbly legs. You never know what you might espy in the wild!
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Lalibela Wildlife Reserve
Kichaka Lodge, where I am based, is the most luxurious of several
accommodation options in the reserve. Each of the ten stone and thatch
suites have splendid views of the verdant landscape, with some set above
a waterhole. My private rim-flow plunge pool is heated, so steam rises
from the water surface each evening when I have my dip after a game
drive, before a delectable three-course dinner under the stars, or in
the elegant indoor dining room.
Image by Lalibela Wildlife Reserve
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Image by Gillian McLaren
My suite is built on three open levels, with lounge on the base
leading out to the wooden deck and outdoor shower; bedroom with a desk
in the middle plane; then steps to the top with a bath and shower, twin
basins, open cupboard space and a separate toilet. The décor is
traditional safari, colonial style, with dark wood and neutral fabrics. I
prefer the light through-breeze to air conditioning, as I enjoy the
night sounds of the African bush, with whooping Spotted hyaena, baying
Black backed jackals and the loud grunts of resident hippos in Kichaka's
waterhole.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Lalibela Wildlife Reserve
Although Lalibela Wildlife Reserve is a Big Five area, with an
excellent chance of spotting all of these much-favoured mammals, the
biome itself - with its rich diversity - is intriguing. The early
European settlers in the region thought the Albany thicket area was
impenetrable. Known as The Frontier Country, it was teeming with
wildlife in the early 19th Century before species were decimated by
European hunters and the land was used for agriculture. The ancient
presence of San people is evidenced in their cave paintings that can be
enjoyed during a bush walk. This wilderness area is a now triumph of
conservation, where previous farming areas are being rehabilitated in an
ongoing project, to allow the land to return to its original state.
Alien trees - like Australian wattle along the river valley - are
steadily being removed, cut down and the area burned, to slow down their
rate of proliferation. After a survey of the region, the carrying
capacity was determined, then indigenous animals - including Cape
Vultures - were reintroduced to the reserve. Wildlife is carefully
monitored by conservation staff and assisted by the anti-poaching team
with their energetic K9 dogs.
The abundance of birds here includes specials like Knysna turaco,
Village weaver, White-bellied bustard and Orange throated longclaw, each
of which I am thrilled to watch while on a bush walk.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
Malaria free, with rich vegetation in a picturesque landscape
carrying an array of indigenous game, birds, reptiles and amphibians,
plus the privilege of well-informed guides, make Lalibela Wildlife
Reserve a desirable Safari destination.
Image by Lalibela Wildlife Reserve
Image by Gillian McLaren
https://lalibela.net/
Getting There
South African Airways is the flag carrier of South
Africa. SAA offers direct daily flights from Johannesburg, Durban and
Cape Town to Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth), the nearest airport to Lalibela
Wildlife Reserve. Look on their website for some excellent local flight
specials.
SAA hosts domestic and international lounges around the world accessible for SAA Business and First Class passengers.
https://www.flysaa.com/
From Qgeberha (PE) it is an hour’s drive to the Reserve, through
glorious scenery. It’s an easy self drive, but the lodge can organise a
comfortable transfer for guests.
Taken from: Luxury Travel Magazine
