Azura Benguerra Island • Mozambique • YourLuxury Africa

 

AZURA BENGUERRA: AN ISLAND IDYLL

Experience luxury and natural beauty at Azura Benguerra Island, where helicopter rides, private villas, and ocean adventures await. Indulge in gourmet seafood, explore pristine beaches, and unwind under Mozambique’s starlit skies

In a chopper from Wildlife Helicopters, I fly low over the aquamarine and cerulean Indian Ocean, from the mainland of Vilankulos to Azura Benguerra Island. Although only a ten minute flight, it’s unforgettable for the spectacular panorama of tropical waters of Mozambique, with sporting humpback dolphins, slow turtles and a castor sugar beach edging the resort. After an enthusiastic welcome song by staff, my personal butler-host escorts me through indigenous gardens, along a path laden with shards of mother-of-pearl shells that glint in the sunlight.

My private villa is one of 20 along the beach, all constructed by Mozambican Islanders, using local materials. Coconut palm leaves form the thatching, with a long fringe left to sway in the breeze. The wooden deck is made of Zimbiri timber. As well as an en-suite bathroom with shower and bath, I find twin outdoor showers beneath the canopy of a tree. I linger here at night, to gaze at the Southern Cross and Milky Way spiral galaxy. With few lights on Azura Benguerra Island, unlike in a built-up area, the stars are astoundingly bright. Lying on my King-sized bed, I see past my private plunge pool, daybed, thatched sala and the beach, to the ever-changing sea.

When the sun peeps over the ocean in the morning, I stroll for miles along the beach. On the tideline I find empty shells of varying sizes and hues, some with living molluscs; scurrying crabs, tracks of seabirds and footprints of local people en route to their fishing dhows. I chat to women clad in capulana, Mozambican sarongs with distinctive patterns in bright contrasting colours. These village women are sourcing fresh seafood for their families, or helping the men to drag in their nets from the night’s catches. Each day, Azura Benguerra Island buys squid, lobster, prawn, blue crab, or line fish, so the seafood meals are always tasty and varied.

Venues for lunch include the Jellyfish Restaurant and Star Bar in the communal area, with tables under thatch or on the beach facing the sea. Azura Peri-Peri Beach Club, a short walk along the beach, has a relaxed atmosphere for delectable braaied seafood, for lazing on deck chairs next to the swimming pool, or for snoozing under a private thatched canopy. One lunchtime, after snorkelling in the warm Agulhas current, I am treated to a picnic on a secluded beach picnic near Pansy Island. Dining is a romantic happening in a different location each evening, with candles and lanterns to complement the moonlight. Decorations of fresh palm fronds, bougainvillea flowers and shells in a jar, are assembled by my host. During a beach dinner at my villa, I watch lambent light in the waves, as I sip a Pīna Colada.

As this eco-retreat is situated within a Marine National Park, snorkelling, scuba diving, swimming with dolphins, as well as catch-and-release deep-sea fishing, are all richly rewarding activities. I hope to view the critically endangered Dugong – a sea cow with a forked tail – but fishermen have not spotted them for several days. While scuba diving at Two Mile Reef, I enjoy the diversity of healthy corals, an array of tropical fish, moray eels and a highlight for me: a crocodile fish.

Approaching the reef the seas are rough, but it’s an adventure worth having for the chance to find the dugong, pods of bottle-nose dolphins and green turtles along the way. The striking colours of the ocean contrast with the white of the sandbar, where a flock of pink-tinged flamingos are foraging. When the speedboat returns to Azura Benguerra Island, I stride through the low waves in my wetsuit, feeling like a Bond Girl! My host heralds me from the shore, proffering a tray with a glass of iced Sauvignon Blanc.

At sunset, in Azura Benguerra Island’s traditional dhow, it is silent save for the soft wind unfurling the sails, as I sip a gin and tonic. The resort is authentic, romantic and remote, in sublime surrounds. Surely a glimpse of heaven.

Getting There: AIRLINK offers direct flights to Vilanculos from Johannesburg and Nelspruit.

Images by Gillian Mclaren

 

Taken from: https://yourluxury.africa/travel/azura-benguerra-an-island-idyll/ 

 

 

Santorini Mozambique • Vilankulos • Mozambique • Luxury Travel Magazine

 

Honeymoon Haven: Exclusivity, Elegance and Romance: Santorini Mozambique, in Vilankulos, Mozambique

• June 7, 2024
• Gillian Mclaren

The main villa at Santorini Mozambique is painted chalk white, reflecting the bright sunlight in Vilankulos. Carefully selected objets des artes - in wood, soft white stone or glazed glass - as well as the cupolas and roof tiles are offset with accent hues of pastel blues and greys. The effect is spacious, clean and lustrous. As the Greek-inspired building is set on a hill, when I enter the portals of Santorini Mozambique, I can see through the Main Villa, right down to the azure Indian Ocean in the distance. This feng shui design adds to the airiness, peace and expansive feel of the central communal area.

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

My personal host welcomes me warmly and during my stay ensures that I have everything I need, with the best of unobtrusive, professional service. I select from the activities on offer and an individualized itinerary is designed for me. There is no timetable here, it is up to guests when they wish to participate in meals or activities. For meals, my table is set in a different space daily, each with sublime views of the fishing-boat- bobbing sea*, or the swimming pool in the courtyard. With delicate attention to detail, my table is set with a white linen cloth, bearing a single gray stripe, that matches the creatively folded fabric napkins. Fresh flowers are placed in a transparent glass bottle, with glass beads hanging around its neck. In the mornings, we are presented with a menu of the meals for the day. Tastefully done, lunch is three courses and dinner comprises four courses, all immaculately served on designer crockery or on wooden boards or boxes.

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

Freshly caught seafood is available daily, with an alternate choice for those who enjoy a prime cut of steak, vegetarian and vegan fare. Excellent South African, French and Portuguese wines - like Vino Verde - are paired with the courses. Premium wines are available, stored in a temperature controlled cellar. One lunchtime, my host escorts to Santorini’s neat herb and vegetable garden, where a barbecue has been set up. The chef grills a skewer of seafood for me, presented with creative salads. Sunset Canapés are available on a dhow cruise. Dependent on wind in the furled sails, being aboard this traditional boat creates a quiet, meditative and romantic atmosphere.

 

Image by Santorini Mozambique

In the evenings the rooftop Sala Bar reveals spectacular sunset views of the beach and ocean below. A sociable area, it’s a place to interact with fellow guests. Cocktails are shaken and stirred and of course the quintessential African gin and tonic is mixed. Music is up-beat, yet unobtrusive.

 

Image by Santorini Mozambique

My suite is ultra-spacious, with an extra-large king-sized bed that has pillow slips of 100% pure white linen. To my joy, there is a verandah with an open-air bathtub, with Charlotte Gray amenities. From the capacious tub, I gaze at the ever-changing colors of the ocean, the dhows that resemble butterflies with closed wings and the shifting cloudscapes. My indoor bathroom has twin basins and two rain showers. Fluffy cotton towels are in shades of blue.

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

Each morning, coffee in a flask and cookies are left outside my suite in a wooden box. Soft sunlight on the beach below Santorini Mozambique lures me out at sunrise, to stroll for miles. I discover live molluscs on the tide line, scurrying crabs escaping into their holes, patterns in the sand from the ebb and flow of tides and warm sunlight shining through empty shells. Shards of sea shells from the eons glisten on the sand and crunch beneath my feet. Local Mozambicans go about their daily activities, preparing to head out to fish in their colorfully painted boats. Where fish have been caught in nets during the night, women - dressed in vibrant kapulana, the local term for sarongs - help to pull in the booty.

After a breakfast with tropical smoothies, muffins and pastries straight from the oven, plus a choice of cooked items, I linger in one of the lounges to peruse the coffee table books and to laze on a couch facing the expanse of ocean, with a range of colors from white, through turquoise to cerulean, depending on the depths of water.

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

Ready for adventure, I head off in a meticulously kept speed boat, to nearby Ilha de Magaruque, in the Bazaruto Archipelago, which sports pristine beaches and sandbars. As the island has a permanent deep water channel on a coral reef, the snorkeling is exceptionally rich. A gentle current moves me along the reef, so I hardly have to fin, except when I free dive down for a closer view of a Honeycomb moray eel, a few sizeable parrotfish, or smaller critters that attract my attention. Pansy Island nearby is strewn with Pansy Shells, also known as Sand Dollars. Pretty and unusual, they are flattened, irregular shells of a type of sea urchin. My guide finds some tiny Hermit crabs, that live temporarily in a sea shell until then grow too large for it, when they abandon the home to find one with a more suitable fit. As the tide comes in, the sand is inundated with sea water and is rapidly completely covered. En route to a picnic spot in a remote part of the Magaruque Island, a flock of flamingos takes off from the waterline on the beach. We spot Humpback dolphins sporting on the waves, then a bobbing Green turtle. Dugongs, an endangered marine mammal, are occasionally found here. A relative of manatees, in the order Sirenia, they are a prized sighting.

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

Simple but elegant, my picnic shelter in blue canvas, is ingeniously structured structured like a chuppah at a wedding, with 4 poles. It’s quickly assembled. Comfortable in a low deck chair, with my toes in the fine sand, I am served a lunch of prawns and salads, accompanied by Paul Cluver Sauvignon Blanc. Left alone, I gaze at the paradisiacal scene and savour the ozone scent from the sea, the sound of gulls and the tropical warmth of a sun high in the sky. I enjoy the pineapple flavored dessert, innovatively served in a clip-top jar.

After my fulfilling expedition and an invigorating shower, I indulge in a foot massage in the Spa, a sensual pleasure that takes me close to snooze mode. Ambling back to my suite, I look up to a glistening heaven. Stars are clear and abundant, as lights are low at Santorini Mozambique, on the mainland of Vilankulo.

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

One of the many highlights of my stay at Santorini Mozambique is an excursion into Vilankulo town, to mingle with Mozambicans. The vehicle is customized with open air seats of blue canvas. I’m taken to the mercado, where basic provisions are available, plus clothes in distinctive local fabrics and authentic items that make great souvenirs. The market is vibrant, with an energizing bustle. We drive through the town to see the homes, small stalls next to the roads and local people strolling in the streets.

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

With its subtle opulence, finely tuned attention to detail in the villas, dining and activities, Santorini Mozambique is unique in their level of excellence, a perfect choice for a special celebration.

https://santorinimozambique.com/

* Dylan Thomas

Getting There:

 

Image by Airlink

Airlink is a privately-owned, premium airline in South Africa, serving the largest network of 47 destinations in 15 African countries and St Helena Island, with the largest fleet of 68 commercial aircraft. Airlink’s on-time performance is consistently better than 95%, a clear indication of their commitment to service excellence, and reliability.

Direct Flights to Vilanculos from Johannesburg and Nelspruit. The coastal town of Vilanculos (or Vilankulo) is a popular tourist destination. Vilanculos is a top-class snorkeling and scuba-diving spot, and the gateway to the Bazaruto Archipelago. Travel on direct flights from Vilanculos to Nelspruit or Johannesburg.

https://www.flyairlink.com

For transfers from Vilankulos to the islands and for scenic flights in the Bazaruto Archipelago, fly with Wildlife Helicopters, over the aquamarine Indian Ocean. https://www.wildlifeheli.com/

Text by Gillian Mclaren (@Jetset_Gillian)
Images by Gillian Mclaren and Santorini Mozambique

 Taken from: https://www.luxurytravelmagazine.com/news-articles/exclusivity-elegance-and-romance-santorini-mozambique-in-vilankulos-mozambique

Fifty Seven Waterberg • Welgevonden • Waterberg • Limpopo • Luxury Travel Magazine

 

Welgevonden Wonders: A Big Five Safari in the Waterberg Biosphere in South Africa

• April 11, 2024
• Gillian Mclaren

The White rhinos of Africa are magnificent mammals, a treasured ‘big five’ sighting on safari. In an attempt to stop poaching - or at least to try to strongly discourage these criminals - many game parks in South Africa have resorted to cutting off the rhino horns. In the privately owned Welgevonden Game Reserve, in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Waterberg, rhinos are carefully guarded and their horns are left to grow. As there is a healthy population, guests at Fifty Seven Waterberg are highly likely to have several sightings of these iconic African herbivores. It’s an unforgettable privilege to watch white rhinos for an extended time, to see their interactions with one another, plus with other species.

On a morning game drive, in an open-sided, customized SUV, we find a crash of rhinos at a natural rock pool in the tropical grassland. A mother with two youngsters is alert and watches two lionesses approaching the water. There is a stand off, then a young lioness starts to approach the female rhino. She snorts and stamps her feet. Of course the over-bold lioness moves off. When a male rhino approaches, the female permits him to come closer, but is wary.

We follow the lionesses as they are in hunting mode. Ignoring zebra and wildebeest, they mount a chase of a warthog family. In a cloud of dust, amidst much squealing, a lioness captures a juvenile warthog! She darts into nearby bushes, where we can no longer watch her.

The Waterberg biome, in the province of Limpopo, is unlike the often dry savanna of many of the other Game Reserves in South Africa. With a range of rugged mountains and wooded grasslands, this biosphere has a rich biodiversity of fauna with 50 mammal species, including aardvark and Brown hyena that are on the Red Data species list. In summer, migrating birds pass through the area, so it’s the perfect season for keen birders. There are over 300 bird species with specials like Cape Vulture and White-backed night heron, plus over 5500 species of plants, some scarce or threatened. The Welgevonden Game Reserve is also an important San Rock Art site in South Africa.

Four main rivers - Lephalala, Mokolo, Matlabas and Mogalakwena, named in the local Bapedi language - have carved deep valleys. The rivers split into numerous streams and rivulets, running over yellow and red hued rocky surfaces. We stop next to one of these lesser rivers to listen to the movement of the water, to enjoy the fresh ozone fragrance. We take in the beauty of the sedimentary rocks, plus the bare sandstone cliffs in the distance.

From our Luxury Suite - one of ten suites at Fifty Seven Waterberg - and from our private, solar heated plunge pool, we have a view over verdant bush, to the Waterberg mountains beyond. Elephants amble past us, treading silently. The open plan Luxury Suite has a king-sized bed, with lounge areas on either side, an indoor and outdoor shower, bath, double vanity and a dressing room, plus separate toilet. Floor to ceiling glass doors in front and at the sides can be opened up to create a perfect indoor-outdoor feel. We leave our curtains open at night, to watch the moonrise and the silver river of stars in the Milky Way.

Although there are indoor tables at the communal area of the lodge, we prefer alfresco dining, so choose to sit on the stilted wooden deck, under the stars. Sipping fine South African wine, we watch game coming to drink at the nearby waterhole, as hyena whoop in the distance and an African Scops-owl calls in a low, hollow, repetitive note, occasionally dueting with its mate. Several staff members are from the local Northern Sotho (Sepedi) tribe, who pamper us with excellent service and meals to remember. Baristas have been trained in the art of coffee making and they have fun with latte art in the froth. My first coffee of the day arrives with the design of an elephant head in the microfoam.

One evening, dinner is served in the Boma, lit up by lanterns and a roaring wood fire. Top quality meat is flamed on a braai - South African for barbecue - then served with local vegetable dishes. It’s an opportunity to chat to fellow guests, to sit together with them if you would like some extra conviviality. After a lively chat about our sightings, we select the romantic option of a private table.

Strolling around the lodge one morning, we spot 5 klipspringers, pretty antelope that are adapted to live on rocky slopes.  A multicoloured lizard basks on a warm rock surface. Alive with butterflies and flitting birds, it’s such a treat to explore this lush area, that one game drive a day suffices.

https://57waterberg.com/

Getting there

Welgevonden Game Reserve is a pleasant 3,5 hour drive, 250 km/124 miles northwest from Johannesburg, in a vehicle with high-clearance; or a 45 minute flight with a chartered airline to one of the airstrips.

Travel Tips

For the hot and rainy summer months of October to April, take cool clothes plus water resistant layers. In the cooler, dry winter months of May to September, pack warm layers, especially for cold evening game drives. Fifty Seven Waterberg spoils guests with a hot-water bottle on early morning game drives.

Welgevonden is malaria free.

Taken from: https://www.luxurytravelmagazine.com/news-articles/welgevonden-wonders-a-big-five-safari-in-the-waterberg-biosphere-in-south-africa

Constance Moofushi • Maldives • FAIRLADY

Coconut palms, banyan trees, fine coral sands and endless turquoise water – this is bucket list travel at its finest.   Who doesn’t dream of visiting the Maldives one day? This remote, sparsely populated tropical country is little more than a garland of 26 circular-shaped atolls, with 1192 low-lying islands. None of them are more than 1.8 metres above sea level, and only 185 are inhabited. Welcome to Constance Moofushi   There is only one resort per island, romantic with its dim lights, so the heavens are clear and constellations from both the Northern and Southern hemispheres are visible. Positioned south-west of India, this fragile environment is exquisitely beautiful; it’s the quintessential island fantasy. Dotted with coconut palms, mangroves and breadfruit trees, the islands are fringed by powdery white sand and translucent water. On the beach, hibiscus trees were in full bloom. In the early morning, the delicate flowers would be sunny yellow, and by late afternoon they’d have darkened to a burnt-orange shade before turning crimson and falling off. An exquisite flower with a lifespan of a single day.   I stayed at Constance Moofushi, situated on the South Ari Atoll – said to be one of the best diving and snorkelling spots in the world. The coral reef systems of the Indian Ocean teem with marine life, the water is a pleasant 29°C (so you only need a second skin, not a wetsuit), there are hardly any waves and visibility is clear up to 25 metres.  Enzo Spina, the owner of Bluetribe Moofushi Dive Centre at the resort, has lived on the island for decades. He persuaded me to try a diver propulsion vehicle to whiz past hundreds of sharks in the renowned Shark Pass. It’s a thrilling experience. To my amusement, I was named Top Gun Diver of the Day. Enzo videoed our dive, so I have a souvenir to post on my social media.     Dive right in!   During a more leisurely dive at Dega Thila, or Coral Garden, I was mesmerised by the diversity of corals and their extraordinary colour combinations. A hawksbill turtle manoeuvred itself out from under an overhang, a pair of Maldive anemonefish darted in and out of their host anemone (think Finding Nemo) and thousands of fingerlings shimmered past. Close encounters with gentle whale sharks and night dives with nurse sharks are moments I will never forget.   After my water activities, I sipped coconut water from a freshly cut coconut. This is perhaps the closest thing the Maldives has to a national drink, as alcohol is eschewed in the Muslim culture. (Although I am told that some islanders discreetly produce their own toddy, called ‘raa’, which is tapped from palm trees and left to ferment.) The Manta Bar is always open for a creative mocktail, cocktail or refreshing beer, and the open-air Totem Bar on the beach is a popular spot for a light lunch and cheerful music.   From the deck of my water villa on stilts, I watched black-tip reef sharks, trumpetfish, fusiliers and purple jellyfish swim past in the lagoon. If I felt like snorkelling, I didn’t need to go far! Spinner dolphins and Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins often gambolled near the wooden stairs leading from my private veranda, and I could swim alongside reef sharks, whiptail rays, shimmering schools of blue jackfish, and an impressive variety of iridescent reef fish. I could hear parrotfish biting off bits of coral; apparently they can change both their colour and gender.   After hours of gentle snorkelling, I visited the Constance Spa for a classic massage, where I was lulled to semi-sleep watching the movements of trumpetfish and fusiliers through the spa’s glass floor.     Nocturnal adventures During an evening stroll, I searched for scurrying ghost crabs, expertly camouflaged in the icing-sugar sand. By day, they dig into cool, moist burrows, but at night they scuttle out to feed on plankton washed out by the tide.   I spotted swift-footed rock crabs, also known as Sally Lightfoot crabs, that inhabit the rocky shores. A nocturnal land hermit crab (using an abandoned mollusc shell as its temporary home, until it outgrows it and has to find a bigger one) withdrew into its shell as I approached. When I stood still, the crab peeked out, then slowly extended its legs and gingerly continued on its way. Astoundingly, they can live up to 40 years.   Black-naped terns plunge-dove into the sea for fish, and a pair of white-breasted waterhen summoned their two fluffy chicks with loud, cackling calls from beneath the dense undergrowth of sea lettuce. A grey heron (or maakana) stood motionless beside the water, waiting to catch aquatic creatures. At dusk, it flew away with slow wingbeats.   Food, glorious food Dinner was served at a lamp-lit table beneath a beach calophyllum tree at Alizée Restaurant. The wine list features mainly South African wines, but I was feeling like experimenting. The Château Respide-Medeville Blanc 2018, an unusual French blend of 50% Sémillon, 48% Sauvignon Blanc and 2% Muscadelle, complemented the scallops. And with these surroundings, how could I not opt for fresh seafood at every opportunity? My main course was a delectable reef fish and, for dessert, I had three scoops of gelato – basil, lemongrass and coconut – paired with a New Zealand dessert wine, Two Rivers Altitude Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, which had notes of honey and passionfruit and was delicious.   All too soon, my stay at Constance Moofushi drew to a close. I am left with a rich trove of memories, a tick on my bucket list and a fervent hope that I’ll return one day. Getting there   Air Seychelles offers weekly flights from Johannesburg to the Maldives, via the Seychelles. It’s a pleasant nine-hour journey, faster than long-haul routes offered by other carriers. Written by Gillian McLaren   Taken from: https://m24magazines.evlink.net/public/messages/view-online/5aDU1yF8IPLrpKfn/b5vsYdud0Ju2XCjI/15bce618c05a5275

Constance Halaveli • Maldives • YourLuxury Africa

 

A PALETTE OF UNENDING BLUES

Private island elegance comes to a satisfying peak at Constance Halaveli in the Maldives.

ByGillian McLaren

From my stilted water villa at Constance Halaveli, I step down into the beryl-blue of the Indian Ocean. In shallow water, I snorkel with iridescent tropical fish, resting whiptail rays, blacktip reef sharks – harmless to humans – plus schools of Blue spotted trevally on the hunt.

Emerging from the saltwater, I rinse off under my outdoor shower, revelling in the sunshine, the view of aquamarine sky, seamlessly blends with the sea. With glass of champagne in hand, I step into my private plunge pool, anticipating one of the glorious sunsets that perfuse the heavens without fail here.

It could take ten minutes for a stroll around the island – barefoot in fine coral sands that encircle the resort – but I am distracted by nimble Sally Lightfoot crabs, scurrying Ghost crabs and a Land hermit crab that is moving into a new dwelling place; an empty seashell. A Variable Lizard scuttles up a coconut palm tree, while a White-breasted Waterhen loudly instructs her two grey chicks to settle into the undergrowth below a Beach Gardenia. Black-naped terns flying low over the water scrutinising for fingerlings or squid, begin to gather on an isolated spot  on the beach. As the moon casts a lambent light on the gently rippling water, I amble to Jing Restaurant and Bar, a fine dining space that curves out over the lagoon.

On the terrace, under a profusion of stars, I meet the Executive Chef who helps me to select from the Asian fusion à la carte menu. I can’t resist the Seared Saku Tuna with salmon roe and wasabi sesame; followed by today’s catch of Yellowfin tuna with soft shell crab and a sake broth. For my personalised wine pairing, the sommelier chooses from over 22,500 bottles sourced on many continents, introducing me to memorable varietals. With Valrhona Dark Chocolate Balloon and mascarpone mouse, I sip Two Rivers Altitude, a luscious dessert wine from New Zealand, of Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc. Violet lights under Jing’s balcony simulate bioluminescence, attracting sting rays and Whitetip reef sharks. I linger, mesmerised by the ambiance.

Set in the North Ari Atoll, TGI Divers Halaveli offer some of the best scuba diving in the Maldives. In a traditional Dhoni-style boat, we reach Bojamadi, a renowned site to swim with Reef Manta Rays. These gentle dancers queue at a cleaning station, patiently waiting their turn for the Bluestreak cleaner wrasse to nibble off any parasites, bacteria or dead skin. We fin pass Grey reef shark, a Hawksbill sea turtle and shoals of Great barracuda.

After a relaxed al fresco lunch from the at Jahaz Restaurant, I enjoy a Balinese massage at the Halaveli Spa. As the ergonomic bed is set on a patch of glass floor, I view sea-life below, including colourful parrotfish biting off bits of coral and a Blue spotted ray.  In a thrilling end to this equatorial idyll, I return to Malé in 25 minutes, on a seaplane that swoops low over a cobalt ocean, dotted with islands.

https://www.constancehotels.com/

Images by: Constance Hotels and Resorts and Gillian McLaren

Taken from: https://yourluxury.africa/travel/a-palette-of-unending-blues/